Where to eat
Authentic Donostia flavour: txotx, cod omelette and grilled txuleta.
Tradition
San Sebastián's cider houses (sagardotegiak) have a deep-rooted tradition. They are an essential stop for anyone wanting to experience authentic Donostia flavour. Beyond pintxos and fine dining, cider is a hallmark of the city and its surroundings, and has been made here for centuries.
There were once around 800 cider houses; today barely a hundred remain to keep the tradition alive. The famous cider houses of Astigarraga, along with those in Hernani, Urnieta and Usurbil, are home to most of these places devoted to fermenting apple juice.
At a cider house, as well as sampling the local drink, it's customary to treat yourself to a quality meal. The most popular option is a fixed price that, in addition to all the cider you want straight from the kupela (barrel), includes several signature dishes: to start, cod omelette; then fried cod with peppers; a succulent grilled txuleta (rib steak); and for dessert, Idiazabal cheese with quince and walnuts.
The txotx season (cider straight from the barrels) runs from mid-January to late April, although many cider houses open all year round with bottled cider.
Just five minutes from the heart of San Sebastián and surrounded by stunning natural scenery, you'll find Barkaiztegi. What began as a cider house in the late 17th century has evolved into a complex that also houses a standout restaurant for lovers of traditional Basque cooking.
The cider can be enjoyed all year round, either bottled or in the more traditional way, straight from the barrels, during the cider house season.
Finding the best cider house in San Sebastián is no easy task, as many of those still standing hold centuries of history. Lizeaga is one example: a Donostia cider house on the banks of the Urumea river with over 400 years behind it.
The premises, in the Gartziategi farmhouse and press, are open all year round, but are especially captivating during the txotx season. It can be reached on foot from Astigarraga.
Just five kilometres from San Sebastián is Petritegi, considered by many the best cider house in Astigarraga. This farmhouse and press, dating from the early 16th century, produces and serves one of the region's most famous ciders and offers visitors a wide range of experiences.
With three themed dining rooms (Sagar, Baserri and Arrantzale), Petritegi offers tastings and guided cellar tours, children's workshops, the chance to take part in cider-making, and concerts.
Another benchmark among Astigarraga's cider houses is Zapiain, whose origins also date back to the 16th century. Over the years it has expanded its facilities and brought in new technology, with expert professionals at every stage of the process.
As well as visiting the cellars and tasting traditional cider, Zapiain offers other varieties such as Bizi Gotxo (a dessert cider), the Sagardoz range and even a delicate apple vinegar.
Its history dates back to 1870, and the family character of the business lives on with the fourth generation of producers at the helm. They make several varieties of cider, which can be sampled on guided tours all year round.
The txotx season at Bereziartua runs until the end of May. The kupelas are arranged around the dining room, letting you taste the different varieties the traditional way: at the cry of "txotx!", you fill your glass a couple of fingers deep and drink it unhurriedly but without pause.
The first mention of a certain María Iparragirre in the Hernani municipal archives dates from the 16th century. Today the cider house is run by the third generation of the Beobide family.
It is one of the Gothic farmhouses built as cider factories in the late 15th century, as its oak beams – over 500 years old – attest.
With over a century behind it, Elorrabi cider house has perfected a range of menus and its own cider, founded in a farmhouse with 500 years of history and backed by numerous awards.
Its annual production reaches 106,000 litres, partly made with its own apples. Following a recent refurbishment, it has a large dining room for around 180 diners, 4 wooden kupelas and 3 more in stainless steel.
A family cider house known for its quality cider made in the traditional, natural way, and for its friendly service. They have large wooden kupelas where you can enjoy the txotx during the season.
They serve dinner from Wednesday to Saturday and lunch on Saturdays and Sundays during the season. On Wednesdays and Thursdays they add txuleta burgers to the menu. Bottled cider is sold all year round.
Founded in 1990 by its current owner, Francisco Azkonobieta, Urdaira cider house sits in an enviable spot from which to take in its beautiful natural surroundings.
Although it belongs to Usurbil, it is reached from the Igeldo district of Donostia. Surrounded by its own apple orchards, it produces around 120,000 litres of cider a year.
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